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It wasn’t that dessert trolleys were banned in Italy during Covid, but guidelines from the Instituto Superiore di Sanità (national institute of health) were so (necessarily) rigorous around these “potential vehicles of the virus” that most places banished them to storerooms. Happily, many restaurants have since retrieved them from their long stay, so they glide or rattle between tables once more, or sit parked in an admirable position. This isn’t my first time mentioning the dessert trolley at La Torricella here in Testaccio, having written about its fabulous puff pastry and cream millefoglie in the past. But another dessert that might catch your eye as you enter the restaurant and look right at the cloth-covered trolley parked under the bar is what owner Augusto refers to as torta medievale, because of its spiced almond and dried fruit filling. It’s an unassuming but extremely good thing.

The torta medievale also reminds me of a favourite among favourites: treacle tart, which is, of course, made with golden syrup, whose story began in 1881 when the Scottish businessman Abram Lyle set up a sugar refinery in London. The process involved extracting juice from sugar cane, then boiling down this juice and moulding it into sugar loaves, which could then be grated as required. One of the byproducts of this process was a bitter, molasses-brown treacle, which was initially sold as animal feed, but later, thanks to the work of the chemist, further refined into a viscous, sweet syrup nicknamed “Goldie”, which was stored in barrels and distributed to staff and friends. Over time, though, seeing its popularity, the partially inverted refined syrup was given the name golden syrup and packaged in tins that remain so familiar: dark green with a dead gold lion swarmed by bees. It’s an image from Samson’s Riddle in the book of Judges, in which Samson, returning to the lion he has killed, finds that bees have created a honeycomb in the carcass, which also gives rise to the words on the tin, “out of the strong came forth sweetness”, and reminds one of Lyle’s strong faith.

All of which brings us nicely to the fact that this meeting of two recipes can be made with either golden syrup or honey, or a mix of the two. Either way, do not skimp on the lemon zest and juice – it’s an essential counterpoint to the intense sweetness. Another contrast to the honey or golden syrup is the minimum amount of sugar in the pastry.

Once baked, it will be delicate, so leave the tart to cool a little before dusting with icing sugar and serving in slices. My dad will disagree and message me saying, “Vanilla ice-cream for me”, but I think a sweet tart such as this is best with cold mascarpone or cream. It is even better when served from a trolley.

Almond and lemon spiced treacle tart

Serves 6-8

100g butter
200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
3 tsp caster sugar
400g golden syrup or honey
50g sultanas
30g pine nuts
Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon, plus 2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp ground cloves
60g butter
100g ground almonds
100g soft white breadcrumbs
1 egg white, beaten until frothy but not stiff
Icing sugar, for dusting
Cream, or mascarpone, to serve

Make the pastry by rubbing (or pulsing) the butter into the flour until the mix resembles fine breadcrumbs, then add the salt, sugar and just enough cold water to bring everything into a malleable but firm ball. Wrap and chill for one hour.

Working on a lightly floured surface, roll the pastry into a circle a little larger than a 23cm tart tin (ideally loose-bottomed), then lift and press it into place, leaving a slightly overhang. Put a circle of baking paper in the centre, weigh it down with dry rice or baking beans, then bake at 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 for about 15 minutes, until the pastry is firm. Remove the rice/baking beans and paper and bake for another five minutes, until the pastry is light golden brown and biscuity.

Working in a pan, warm the golden syrup or honey until liquid, then add the sultanas, pine nuts, lemon zest and juice, ground cloves, butter, ground almonds and breadcrumbs. Mix in the frothy egg white, then pour into the tart case and return to the oven for 15 minutes, until the filling feels firm and the edges are deep golden.

Remove and leave to cool before dusting with icing sugar and serving in slices with cream.